Ice Cream Social - Pockets

Pockets

Whew! Those yokes are looking fantastic in the flickr group. The finished dresses are just gorgeous too like the golden one and the purple one from sarahecosta, the vintage floral by sonicka73 and (get ready for this... don't faint) this grownup version in Liberty by po-prior.

A few of you had concerns that when you did the final step of tacking the back together that they didn't lie flat. Because they need to drape over shoulders, this is spot on correct!

So today, we move onto bodice construction. For those of you doing View A, this means we tackle the dreaded pockets. For everyone else, we'll get to the side seams and talk about a bit construction techniques. I'm writing pockets in a separate post as it's a big topic.

Pockets
Before you get too far into my pictures, I'm going to warn you that this is where I go rogue. I've gone off the books today and away from the direction sheet. I'm going to show you my method and give you links to two others. I suggest you practice one or two methods on scraps and decide which will works best with your sewing skills. We each have different stengths, so play to the ones that work best for you.

For those of you who are a stickler for following directions, I'm going to point you to April's blog. She's written an excellent tutorial on constructing rounded pockets in a technique similar to the directions. And her flickr stream is chock full of Oliver+S inspiration including the new sketchbook shirt for boys.

I'll also point you to vegbee's pocket tutorial as well.

My method comes from my toymaking background and how I get smooth curves on toys. If you've sewn my Moxie pattern, it will look familiar.

For each pocket, my method requires an extra bit piece of fabric as my pockets are lined inside. The pocket linings should be the same size as the pocket outer.

My method involves 4 pocket yoke pieces and 2 pocket outer pieces and 2 pocket linings. Twice as much pocket fabric. I did not cut my pocket pieces to shape, if you already have, no problem at all.


8 total pieces.
4 for each pocket.
1 pocket = 2 pocket yokes, 1 pocket outer, 1 pocket lining
Got it?

Step 1: Attach one pocket yoke to the outer pocket piece with a 1/2" seam. Repeat with the pocket lining pieces. Trim seam allowance to 1/4". Press the seam allowance towards the yoke.

Step 2: Optionally edgestitch along the pocket yoke. You may prefer to do this step later, read ahead and decide what method is best for you. In the future, I would wait to do this until step 12. Photos were already taken for the post when this lightbulb clicked.


Step 3: Create a template of our final pocket. We'll use our pocket template to construct the final pocket shape. You may want to trace your pocket piece and yoke one more time before doing this step as it involves cutting them. First fold the pocket yoke bottom by 1/2". Also fold the pocket top by 1/2". Tape together. This simulates our sewn seam.


Step 4: Fold in half along the vertical center to ensure we have symmetry for the next steps. Make sure your tape yoke seams match. This is more important than matching the pocket edges for now.

Step 5: Trim away 1/2" from all edges of the templates make sure you have a smooth curve at the bottom and cross the marked V dots at the top. Trim away the remainder of the V and then open up. This is the final pocket size that you would get if you followed the other methods.





Step 6: Now we want to trace the shape of the final pocket on to our pocket linings. I use an air erasable marker to do this. You could also use a chalk marker. I like to mark the pocket lining just in case it all goes pear shaped and my air erasable marker gives up. Make sure you align the yoke seams of your template with the yoke seam of your fabric.



Step 7: Mark an opening of approximately 1-2" at the bottom of the pocket this will be our turning hole which we will not sew closed.


Step 8: Place one pocket inner and one pocket outer together with right sides facing. Align the fabric so the yoke seams match. Pin together as necessary.

Step 9: Beginning at the marked opening. Sew exactly on the like drawn working your way around the pocket. With the needle in the down position, lift your presser foot and rotate your fabric at the corners and the V. Continue around until you reach the other marked edge. Make sure you leave a gap for turning.




Step 9: Trim away excess seam allowance to approximately 1/8-1/4". Leave a bit of excess fabric around the opening. This will make it easier when we turn the pocket right side out. Make a deep notch into the V area and clip away excess fabric at the corner to reduce bulk. Notch around the curves. I use pinking shears, but ordinary notches work fine.


Step 10: Turn the pocket right side out. Use a turning tool or lacquered chopstick to make sure the corners and V are fully turned. Use your fingers to get things smooth before pressing flat.




Step 12: If you haven't edgestitched the pocket yoke already, you may prefer to do so at this step. If you do it here, you secure the pocket outer and pocket lining together. If I had foresight, I would have edgestitched here and will next time.

Voila! Pocket! Repeat the steps above to create your second pocket. We're now on track and back to the directions!

Pin both pockets in place matching the template guide. Make sure you've positioned them exactly to match the guide and align the top corners with the dots. Pin in place once it properly fits.


Edgestitch around the pocket to secure it in place. Reinforce your pockets at the top by backstitching, lockstitching, or creating a small triangle to hold them in place. I like to sew two edgestitch lines because I remember that I was rough on pockets as a child. I was the sort of child who might find a small boulder and put it away in her pockets for later.


Whew!!! That was a long one. Are you still confused on pockets? Why not ask in the flickr pocket discussion thread.

I've noticed a few of you asking questions here in my comments, but sometimes you haven't left an email address so I can't get back to you. I feel bad about that, so do ask in the flickr discussion thread. So many wonderful people are helping out there. This Ice Cream Social is just a terrific community. Thank you everyone for helping out!

Bodice constuction coming soon!