There are so many to collect...
-- You're a Star (for a wonky star block)
-- Cabin Fever (a completed log cabin quilt)
-- Loosy Goose (for making a circle of geese)
-- Day in the Sun (for creating a Sunbonnet Sue)
...
You get the idea. I'm currently working on Basket Case, but I'm falling just shy of the achievement.
My patchwork basket based on a quilt in Patchwork 163 book. I was feeling good about it until I tried to add the handle. My flat block warped more than an Lionel Richie LP left in the desert.
I've never sewn basket handles or large curly stems before. I used 1/2" homemade bias for the stem. I sewed the inside edge first via machine and then stretched it outward which was sewn by hand. I'm wondering if I should have used a solid round piece of fabric instead of piece Do you know where I went wrong? Can you offer any tips on my way to a merit badge?
It is very hard to keep a curved stem/bias from warping when machined on and it was across the bias of a piece of fabric. Hand sewing it all may help or as you suggested, cut out the shape and don't think of being wrong,it's just a hiccup.
ReplyDeletei had success when I curved the handles on the ironing board while steaming them. Then they were flat and I had no trouble sewing them on (both sides by machine). I did use a lot of pins so they wouldn't shift. I think if you take our your stitches down to where the handle meets the basket, you can then smooth it out and try again. I would press it up from the basket and pin it, making sure it lies flat and smooth on the background. . I don't think you need to hand stitch the outside. Good luck! It's really a beautiful block.
ReplyDeleteThe way you describe is the most common way of appliqueing handles onto baskets.
ReplyDelete(Google Postage Stamp Basket to see what I am talking about) When the handle is on a HST that you then attach to the basket (Your's appears to be a different basket background - with the rectangles on the sides) you should 1. use a triangle that is too big 2. use a stay stitch on the bias 3. appliqué as you described 4. trim down to size (fixing wonkiness with starch if necessary) then attach to the block.
Based on that, maybe if you started with the background piece too big, you could starch it well & then trim it down to size.
Hope that helps.
A solid piece instead of bias might have worked to give a flatter look but would not have had the pretty finished edges that yours has… Will it stabilize with adjacent blocks and quilting? If it will sort itself out by its completion, I wouldn't worry about it too much. The only other suggestion I could make is using a tearaway stabilizer or a fusible interfacing on the back before adding the handle to keep it from accidentally stretching or puckering.
ReplyDeleteIn all honesty, though, it doesn't look like it's stretched much and I doubt most experienced seamsters would get it flatter than that. It's really lovely - great fabric choices, lovely piecing and a perfect arch to the handle.
I've done a few of these, this is my method- cut bias strip to finished width and add 1/4" to width for seam allowances. Fold and press 1/4" along long edges. Now spray with starch until damp- not aerosol starch it is too stiff, but the corn starch trigger style spray ( I use Earth Friendly), press and gently stretch and round to the desired shape as you press. Pin and hand appliqué on to background, join section to block
ReplyDeleteI took a class with Gwen Marston where we did her liberated baskets all day long. The handles scared me the most and ended up easy peasy. First, make sure you're truly using bias and then iron and steam it into place before you even think about sewing - it makes it lay down so flat that I never needed to use pins! Good luck!
ReplyDeleteI use Gwen's method as well. Cut a true bias strip. Fold raw edges towards each other and machine baste to hold it together. DON'T pin--just gently fold in (so you have all right sides facing out)and machine baste. I turn to the top so I can see how my turning looks and to ensure that it is even. Press with a steam iron to get the desired shape. THEN pin to your block, topstitch in place on one length. Remove basting stitches and topstitch the other side. Run and show your husband proudly waving the block.
DeleteWith this method you have to be comfortable with non-symmetrical handles (although you could get uniformity if you wanted that look). There are also no set seam allowances (because you loosely turn to overlap the edges. I think Gwen says to cut the strips 2" wide to get about a 1" handle, but you could do narrower if you wanted a skinnier one.
I think it looks pretty good. I prefer the bias cut, shape the handle on the block and pin into shape, then spray with sizing, press and applique by hand. I guess pretty much similar to Kerry's method.
ReplyDeleteI have no experience sewing curves but I just bought a Curve Master foot online from Punch With Judy. Just today, so haven't had a chance to use it yet, but the video makes it look awesome.
ReplyDeleteYou have probably pulled your stitches too tight. Unpick your hand stitches, then you need to ease the bias stem over, pin in place, and then sew it in place where it is sitting smooth. Resist the urge to pull the bias stem right the way over so the machine sewn edge is sitting tight, it is OK to have a bit of dimension in the stem (makes it more interesting anyway) which give the stem a bit of give, and allows the surrounding block to sit square. Hope this helps!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful block! Have you tried TLP (tender loving pressing) with a heavy hand and steam? It's not the "right" way to solve it but if it works and the block will still fit in the finished project, then who will ever know? Good luck!
ReplyDeleteHello- this is unrelated to this posting, but I found you at a website with this gorgeous picture of a paper-pieced hexagon border (http://www.favequilts.com/Borders/Paper-Pieced-Hexagon-Quilt-Borders/ct/1) and I am brand new here- you are the first blog I have subscribed to. Anywho, do you still have that project posted? I would love to see more of it!
ReplyDeleteThanks for your time, Wendy
Hi Wendy! All of my tutorials can be found in the menu bar at the top of the blog or via: http://badskirt.blogspot.com/p/tutorials.html
DeleteI use a bias maker (Clover product) and pin over the bias with long flower head pins as I'm pinning into place. Pinning over the bias means you can adjust without stretching or pulling out the pins as you go. Hand stitch down, starting with the inner curve first.
ReplyDelete