Are you ready for the ice cream social?! Grab your directions, pattern templates and fabric because here we go! If you haven't already, give a thorough read through of all of the directions and then pop over and read the pattern errata.
Here on my blog, you'll find handy tips, pictures and URLs to help you along the way. Over at Kate's, she'll be showing finished garments and offering handy techniques. Of course, the best resource is the discussion forums at the Ice Cream Social flickr group. There's a whole community of sewists happy to help each other out!
Here's a sneak peek of what's to come. This post is a bit wordy, so I wanted to reassure you that pretty pictures are coming later, like these photos about making the ice cream dress yoke:
Don't forget to post your progress photos and finished garments in the flickr group. I've heard there are giveaway drawings for those who participate with photos and in the forums! Good giveaway prizes!
As a reminder, you can find the sewalong post schedule at the ice cream social FAQ. Our first minigoal for the sewalong is tracing the pattern, cutting out fabrics and gathering supplies. We'll be working on this today and tomorrow.
Gathering Supplies
This Oliver+S dress doesn't require many supplies to make. Hurrah!
- fabric (washed. dried. preshrunk.)
- one button for back closure
- lightweight fusible interfacing (find tips on interfacing at the Oliver&S forums)
- a good iron
- spray starch
- seam ripper
- scissors
- pinking shears [optional for pockets only]
- lacquered chopstick, turning tool or pointy thing
- fabric marking tool
- pins
- tracing paper, freezer paper, pattern ease or copy machine
- thread
- small ruler [optional]
On my machine, I alternate between
- regular foot
- edgestitching foot [optional]
You can also optionally use a serger for the side seams.
Tip: Oliver+S patterns uses mostly 1/2" seams, but my sewing machine has metric measurements. So I placed a piece of washi tape (residue free masking tape) at the 1/2" spot on my machine as a guide. If you're machine doesn't have a 1/2" guide, you can make a guide with a post-it note.
Tracing our pattern.
Begin by finding each the pattern pieces you need on the pattern page. Each view of the pattern requires a slightly different set of pattern pieces. For View A, you will need 6 pattern pieces. For View B, you will need 5 pattern pieces. For View C, you will need 3 pattern pieces.
Look for the correct size for each pattern piece using the size legend. Each pattern has six sizes on it and each size has a unique line style. Note that the button loop, pocket and pocket yoke have combined pieces for multiple sizes.
Once you've found all of your pieces, we're ready to trace. Lots of methods available for tracing including freezer paper, tissue paper, pattern ease and pattern violene. If you aren't sure what method to use read over this thread in the flickr group to help you decide.
My approach is the lazy method to tracing. My husband bought me a $64AUD multifunction printer/copier, so I've decided just to photocopy the pattern pieces and tape them back together. It works well for me, but does require extra caution when pinning pattern pieces to the fabric to avoid puckering the thicker copy paper.
Be sure to trace all of the special markings like notches, pivot points and special placement markets. If you're a novice with sewing patterns, have a read of the sewing pattern guide on sewing.com to learn more about each of these markings.
Once you have the paper pieces traced, cut them out. Whether you are tracing or photocopying your pattern, take extra care following the outlines as the sizes overlap and intersect particularly along the yoke.
As you prep each piece, don't forget to label them for reuse later. Once you've confirmed that you have all of your pattern pieces, we're ready to begin with the fabric.
Cutting Out the Fabric
Tip: Before doing anything else, wash and dry your fabric as you plan to treat the final garment. If it's going into a dryer later, be sure to preshrink your fabric before you cut it out.
If you are a novice with sewing patterns, Jen at the Fabled Needle has tips about cutting fabric from another sewalong, as well as tips for and transfering pattern markings from a pattern to fabric. Although Jen is working a different pattern, she has great information about selvedges, pattern alignment and notches to help out novices.
Using the layout guides on your pattern page, lay your pattern pieces on to the fabric. Be very mindful of the fabric grain. The pointed tip of the arrow on each piece points to the bottom of the garment. For directional prints, make sure you have aligned the bottom of the print with the arrow tip. As mentioned on the flickr group, special consideration should be taken when using directional prints on the yoke.
With everything pinned in place, we are ready to cut out our garment. If you are uneasy with your scissors, you may prefer to cut your notches outward from the seam allowance rather than into the seam allowance. The Oliver+S patterns have a generous 1/2" seam allowance, but cutting the notches outward ensures you do not cut into the working fabric of your garment.You'll see in later photos that I mix and match how I cut my notches.
Once you've cut out your pattern pieces, you can go ahead and mark them with their placement markings. Because I use an air-erasable fabric marker, I've decided to wait to draw my markings until I'm ready to use each pattern piece later in the week.
Now, double check that you've cut out the appropriate amount of pieces for your blouse/dress. If you've made it this far, grab a cup of tea and relax!! Our next minigoals are the button loop, interfacing and creating the yoke. We'll tackle those starting on June 20th.
I promise prettier pictures then!
Are you stuck? Or do you have a good tip for everyone!? Do post in the flickr group! With well over 200 people sewing along, I'm sure everyone would appreciate both the questions and help! And don't forget to post those process photos! I did mention upcoming giveaways right?
I'm so glad you started this group. It has been so much fun already seeing what everyone is creating and all the beautiful fabric used. I can't wait to see more creations as the social continues. Looks like I need to cut out another dress today, I've got that second set of fabric I want to make a dress for the girls out of.
ReplyDeleteI'm so excited to get started!
ReplyDeleteMy husband, not used to seeing enormous pattern sheets everywhere he looks, even asked me what I was making. Not wanting to miss an opportunity, I showed him the front of the pattern and gushed about making a dress along with over 200 other people at the same time.
Awesome idea, Amy!
(I'm grabbing every opportunity - I was even tracing pattern pieces as I signed the contract to sell the house yesterday!)
Well in true can't wait to get started style I have already made two mistakes 1. Not pre washing my fabric ... And i'm using linen as part of the dress ... 2. Didn't read pattern errata (bah! Who needs that said I), and cut out two bottom panels on the fold. Not disastrous this last one but I did put them on a bit of a slant to get it straight on the fold so who knows if this will give me any trouble ... I have learnt my lesson and will now play by the rules!!
ReplyDeleteYay - View C, size 5 is cut out and ready to add the bits of interfacing.
ReplyDeleteI wanted to join in but raced ahead and finished one last night.Problem being upon my daughter waking her head doesn't fit thru the head hole.And her arms don't fit thru the arm holes.Out came the quick unpick and I sewed another band at the bottom of the yoke.Would love to know if anyone else has this problem.Oh and my daughter is 2 and I made a 4 (she is big for her age)Should have followed the no-sewing after 9pm rule.....
ReplyDeleteI cut mine and am SO ready to go! My daughter has a big head (big brains) so I may have to make some allowance around the yoke for that, hmmmmm.
ReplyDeleteMy brain is a little fried from reading up on cutting and marking on Fashion Incubator. I don't think that the ultra-precise techniques listed there are necessary for this pattern, but since I'm hoping to work up to 3-scissors patterns, I'm going to take a whack at tracing and cutting super carefully. Will post photos!
ReplyDelete